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Model:C3-6500CATSPC22

Package and content: The light came packed well with a plenty wrap around and in a plastic bag The light comes in a card box which is typical for Astrolux The box has a compartment for the light and a battery, but the battery compartment has 14500 size while it is a 18350/18650 light It comes with 2 spare o-rings, clip, lanyard, spike, thread adapter and manual Here you can see the optional 18650 tube with clip attached, compared to an Utorch UT01, which looks quite familiar as this light Photos of the light Comparism and teardown: Size compared to other 18350 and 14500 lights I would have dropped the thread for the spike in the tail cap to get the light shorter compared to 18650 lights there is a 18650 aluminum tube available, but it is as well too short for button top or protected batteries, probably a longer 18650 will be released soon for the S42 Beam color is neutral around 5000K for the Nichia 219C model, the Nichia has a nice uniform beam and color rendering is great The LEDs are perfectly reflowed and the MCPCB sits perfect, but the charging port cover slips too easily from left to right the lights get warmer, picture taken @5000K camera setting left XML2 U3-3D 5000K, Astrolux S42 Nichia 219C 5000K, Nichia 5000K, XPL HD 1A 6500K The LEDs in this light are available in XP-G2, XP-G3 and Nichia 219C The light can be taken apart completely, nothing is glued The light has the tail cap with a thread for the spike or an tripod The head has a diameter of 27mm and 21mm visible of the TIR optic The driver can’t be pulled out easily, the LED leads have to be unsoldered I highly recommend unsoldering the side switch board as well then push the driver out through the LED wire hole The driver board has 2 pads for AMC7135 chips which are not populated So a single FET is controlling all modes the leads are all reinforced with some glue The light can be physical locked out by twisting the tail cap or head The Head the TIR is a medium flood, gives a nice uniform beam with some spill the Nichia LEDs fit in nicely The slave board for the switch has also a green and red LED The shelf is about 1mm thick, it could be more, but the thick copper MCPCB does a good job spreading the heat, on Turbo the head gets hot really quick, so the thermal path is well Waterproofness might be an issue as the USB cover gets very easy loose, they should have made the cut out 1mm deeper like the Klarus lights and have the rubber cover with o-ring like shape The thermal paste was applied in a moderate quantity and seems to be some silver compound, when I removed the MCPCB I saw a really nice pattern which means it was on the full surface and in a thin layer The MCPCB is s true copper DTP one about 1.5mm thick, very nice, the back of it is gold plated The MCPCBs back is perfectly flat The lens is AR coated glass I would like to see the TIR attached to the lens with optical glue to get more OTF lumens Tube and Tail Tail cap spring is thick and seems to be some alloy which is barely magnetic possible stainless steel, also the driver one is barely magnetic I cut the tail spring a bit shorter as my unprotected brass button cell get dented in the tail, when fully screwing the tail down, even with raised top cells like Sanyo 18650GA it’s a tight fit The light is build for unprotected batteries, protected or button top unprotected won’t fit from those batteries only the 2 left fit without a problem the tube inner diameter is 19mm, the springs get fully compressed with an unprotected flat top cell, so their resistance is very low, the tail spring sticks a bit over 1mm inside the tube The tube threads are triangular cut on both sides, the tube has 2 o-rings and the tail side is lubed for water tightness square cut would be nicer, but all Astrolux lights have triangular which fits each other Driver and Battery The light is USB chargeable with micro USB connector The Light charges the battery with 0.5A the cell reaches fully charged 4.16V, this is a safe and good value The light has PWM in moon and medium/high modes, but it’s really fast about 100kHz hard to photograph The light does all modes over the FET, so they are not constant, the driver has 2 unpopulated 7135 pads, it would be better to get low modes realized with regulated current The lights runs 20 seconds on highest level, I can’t see a significant drop in brightness during that time but the head gets hot really quick from 25°C to about 60°C with a fresh cell, then it ramps down slowly to High2, no hard step down so smooth you did not even notice The light has no much mass to absorb heat, in turbo mode on a high drain cell it gets hot quickly, in High2 the temperature stabilizes on a good level if held in hand If the light is left alone ceiling bounce at High2 the lights head reached a bit less than 80°C after 10 minutes @25°C room temperature, too hot to touch but technically a safe level tail cap current measurement on brightest level stock light: - 6.1A with 5 year old Samsung 18650-26F - 9.95A with new Samsung 18650-30Q 8.90A with new Sanyo 18650GA Tail current for other modes Moon 6.9mA Low 79.5mA Middle1 0.6A Middle2 1A High1 1.47A High2 2.12A The mode spacing is too close together for my liking, the moonlight could be lower like a firefly using those unpopulated AMC pads on the driver At 2.78V the light does step down to firefly mode and blinks low voltage warning if the battery voltage recovers you may enter low and middle1 Below that voltage it shuts down and you cant turn on the light again The light pulls in the breathing mode 0.95-1mA from the battery Unfortunately the breathing mode runs down to 2.38V which is too low, and will damage the battery When the light is locked out with side switch it pulls about 15uA Modding: The only thing I will do when I get time would be getting a Narsil driver installed driver replacing without keeping the chargin circuit is easy, a 21mm driver fits with minor sanding with AWG18 and SIR800 FET pulling 18.9A on cold start instead the 9.95A with fresh Samsung 18650-30Q cell I went with a solution I like, keeping the old drivers slave board electronics with charging I did wire the old electronics with the LED+ wire on the star, so if I want deactivate the USB charger and breathing lighted sideswitch to get rid of the parasitic drain, I can unsolder the thin wire on the star The drivers contact board and TA 21mm LDO driver trimed the board to fit easily used my Dremel to get rid of unsoldering the leads to the switch board trimmed the old driver contact board to fit inside the head, cut the bolts connecting both boards by 4mm and sanded it Driver assembly before gluing the old board on top of the TA driver to fix the position USB slave board I had to cut the USB opening a bit as I trimmed not enough leng of the bolts The lead connecting the old slave board with the battery, can be easily disconnected I did just cut the tail spring a bit shorter to allow my brass button flat tops to fit without denting the battery bottom, there will be longer tubes released soon Beam shots about 2m from Light to ceiling Astrolux S42 Nichia 219C Astrolux K01 XPL-HD 3D Jetbeam Jet-1 MK modded with Nichia 219C from a BLF348-2016 Utorch UT01 6500K Nitecore P12 XML U3-3D NW User Interface I don’t like how long it takes pressing the button to shut the light off, my Utorch UT1 is a lot quicker, also when in moon mode a long click goes to turbo instead shutting the light down, which may ruin your night vision I like the user interface of the UT01 more than the one here The double click to switch mode groups is wasted, better do instant turbo from any mode and off with it and switch modegroups differently Conclusion Positive: - good production quality - solid head, DTP star screwed on the shelf - Nichia LEDs has a nice neutral white with great color rendering - AR coated glass lens - good floody beam, but also some throw by the amount of light on turbo build in USB charging CC-CV tops at 4.16V with max 0.5A charge current Neutral: - original 18350 tube is too short, the new tube is longer and fits button tops without any problem, however protected ones are still very tight - triangular cut threads with good quality, square cut would be nicer - the UI is not really good, but useable for normal users - S41/S42 18650 tube fits only unprotected flat top batteries - low and medium modes running over the FET, so they get dimmer with lower cell voltage - beam profile can be better if the TIR would rest on the LEDs, can be modded first USB cover gets very easy loose, they offered to send a new one which fits a lot better Negative: - the low voltage protection in breathing mode the light runs the battery way down too much to 2.38V UI is bad for enthusiats [PART 1] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread